Beiyuan South Road is Beijing's best-kept culinary secret where neon signs flicker to life at dusk like a scene from old Peking. Don't miss 'Lao Zhang Lamb Skewers' at the alley entrance - their cumin-spiced lamb kidneys sizzle on 30-year-old charcoal grills, or 'Lina Malatang' serving signature beef broth hotpot with springy duck blood cakes till 3am. Save room for hand-pulled noodles tossed with black bean paste and cucumber shreds at this locals-only midnight canteen!